Thoughts on the Flight Home, and Subsequent Reflections

by Alan Dorway

“Onions have layers. Ogres have layers. We both have layers” – Shrek

On May 14th it rained in Bethlehem. The rain was welcomed by our group as a break from the warmth and sunny days we’ve experienced here. It also rained rocks. We watched as boys not older than 18 rained rocks with arms and slingshots toward a guard tower. Lastly, it rained combined hymns sung by pilgrims as we gathered where the angel announced the birth of the Christ-child.

These images stuck in my mind through Sunday, May 17th. On Sunday, for me the rain began to stop. We were reminded that part of our pilgrimage to Israel was to strip away some of the narratives and see the complex issues facing Israel/Palestine in bite size pieces to reflect on and share when we’re home. Layers, this trip has many layers.

For instance, we worshiped in an ecumenical setting at an agency designated to bring peace in refugee camps right next to the separation wall. We broke bread together, shared the cup of Christ, prayed together, and did not have to look more than 20 feet to see the gray wall filled with graffiti separating people who need above all to see each other as human.

Hebron

Hebron

In the afternoon, we went to Hebron. There we saw streets closed for only one group to use and wire mesh over the souk to protect another group from being targeted as trash dump. Hebron is also the place of the Cave of the Patriarchs massacre. This was a shooting carried out by American-Israeli Baruch Goldstein. On February 25, 1994, Goldstein opened fire on a large number of Palestinian Muslims who had gathered to pray inside the Mosque of Abraham. The attack left 29 people dead and 125 wounded. Goldstein was only stopped after he was overpowered and beaten to death by survivors.

The massacre immediately set off mass Palestinian protests and riots throughout the West Bank, and within 48 hours another 9 Palestinian protesters had been killed by the Israeli Defense Forces. Goldstein was widely denounced in Israel and by Jewish communities, yet others laud him as a hero and view his attack and death as an act of martyrdom. We visited this place, now divided into mosque and synagogue. We met a man in the mosque whose father and uncle were there that day, they survived, and this man thanks God everyday for life where others died. Layers.

“Palestinian children explore the Mosque, reminding us that this is very much a living house of worship, holy and home to many.”

Palestinian children explore the Mosque, reminding us that this is very much a living house of worship, holy and home to many.

When I taught pre-teens in Sherwood Forest at Calvin Crest, I led a lesson on our sin and how it separates us from God. First, we did a finger painting activity. Our group would take time to be creative and paint images of creation, God, and whatever else they desired. Afterward, I had the kids wash up. When we settled back down I would ask, are your hands clean? In fact, I said, if you have the cleanest hands I’d give you a chocolate bar that I had in my backpack. Of course, as I only had one candy bar, I needed to be very selective. I’d go around looking at hands being very picky and say, “no, I can still see dirt”, “oops, paint still under your nails”, “who am I going to give the candy bar?” No one, all of the hands I inspected had dirt on them. This drove the kids crazy, “my hands are less dirty than his”, “I cleaned them really well”, “my hands are good enough, come on give me the candy!” The truth is that none of our hands were clean.

As I looked at my hands on this Sunday in Bethlehem, they were not clean either. My trip to Israel and Palestine is complicated, layered in images and testimony, history and reality. What am I going to take as my story out of these layers?

blog 11photo3

Confessing sins of commission and omission

When we worshipped, the priest confessed spontaneously sins of commission and omission. In front of the worshiping community, he boldly confessed and sought forgiveness. This was a powerful moment in the worship for a lot of us where the words of assurance were forgiveness seeking. Layers upon layers of narratives and history need to be peeled back and looked at and confessed. Our hands are dirty, my hands are dirty and maybe we need to sit down together at a table, not seeking answers, but admitting sins and seeking forgiveness.

blog 11photo4

That is my prayer. Forgiveness that will, in God’s time and through honest confession, bring peace, healing, and justice. In the interim, let’s share coffee together, laugh with one another, hold each other’s hand, and eat candy bars. When we participate in activities where we see each other as human, then Jesus is there, guiding us deeper into relationships where we change and grow. At the end of my lesson on sin, all of us, kids and leaders, got a candy bar. Why? Because God’s love is more than enough to clean us and wash away our sin that separates us from one another. Layers. Layers in our lives that God’s love can strip away and peel back so that we see each other as a new creation and are able to re-create life together. My hands are still dirty, but grace gently allows them to be clean.

Peace, Alan Dorway

blog 11photo5

Monday, May 18th: The Last Day

by Joanie Grierson

photo1 blog 10

Dean Hosam Naoum at the Cathedral of St George

The last day started with an early call to be packed, fed and on the bus to East Jerusalem by 7:45.  Despite a 20 minute traffic delay, the Bethlehem checkpoint posed no problem.  We were greeted at the Cathedral of St George by Dean Hosam Naoum, a 1991 graduate of Mar Elias.  He is in charge of the Arabic and the English congregations of the church, is principal of the 900 student school next door and is head of the churches in Jerusalem.  In spite of all the problems he discussed, how good it was to hear him say “good things are happening here”.  Once again, we sang “Pray For the Peace of Jerusalem”.

A short distance away was the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs  (OCHA).  Their reports have documented the many problems we have seen for Palestinians such as illegal seizures of Palestinian land in the West Bank and East Jerusalem, establishment of 135 Settlements and about100 outposts.  Roads built exclusively for Israelis, barrier walls that fragments the community, travel restrictions and a cumbersome permit system that separate people from jobs and needed social and medical services were discussed.  Unfortunately the UN has not been able to change policies.  They do provide relief and OCHA runs the refugee camps and schools within. Nearly one-third of the registered Palestine refugees, more than 1.5 million individuals, live in 58 recognized Palestine refugee camps in Jordan, Lebanon, the Syria, the Gaza Strip and the West Bank.

photo 2 blog 10

“I shall put my breath into you and you shall live again and I will set you upon your own soil…” The Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial Museum in Israel

Next was an unforgettable visit to Yad Vashem, the official Israeli memorial to the Holocaust.  The voices recalling their memories of the horrors, the art that was produced, the shoes and uniforms they wore, the tributes to those who tried to help will always be indelibly imprinted in our minds.

photo 3 blog 10

Meeting with Dalia Landau (far right), whose story is told in Sandy Tolan’s book, The Lemon Tree

By 5:30 reached Ramle and finally climbed the path to a beautiful monastery where we had an opportunity to process our reaction to the trip.   All agreed it has been a life changing experience with a group of welcoming and caring fellow pilgrims.  We loved the order of the trip starting with IIbellin and the camaraderie that developed among the group.  For me, the most memorable event of the day was our meeting with the charismatic Dalia Landau, a key figure in The Lemon Tree.  Her heartfelt decision to embrace the pain felt both by her Jewish community and the Palestinians and search for the path of peace inspired us as it has so many others.

Kudos to Joan for arranging a wonderful final dinner at Samir’s restaurant.  As we moved on to the Tel Aviv airport, we all knew we had experienced an amazing and unforgettable trip.  Thank you.

How Similar and How Different

By Arlene Cobau

On the road from Jerusalem to Jericho

On the road from Jerusalem to Jericho

Today, the 12th day of our Pilgrimage was packed, as all have been, with a variety of sights and experiences- learning and fun.

We started from Bethlehem and went to Bethany, the home of Martha, Mary, and Lazarus; on to Wadi Qelt and the breathtaking view of the rugged desert; on to Jericho, one of the oldest known walled cities in the world; then to Qumran, home of the Essenes, the breakaway sect who left the Dead Sea Scrolls in the caves where they lived; and we ended at the Dead Sea.

Swimming in the Dead Sea

Swimming in the Dead Sea

As our trip reaches its conclusion each person was asked to relate “the experience that had the most effect on you.”  What a difficult question because many moments came to mind. Who we are. How similar and how different our reactions are. Each of us has been profoundly changed by our experiences and each hopes he/she can be a peacemaker.

Do unto others as you would have them do unto you.” (Luke 6:31) This is the saying we are taught as children – the Golden Rule – Jesus’ rule- the rule we try to live our lives by.  If everyone obeyed this rule there would be peace.

Blessed are the Peacemakers for they will be called the children of God. (Matthew 5:9)